Gatter Entrelac Scarf

3:54 PM

Some may be intimidated by how complicated they look (but really – entrelac is easy!)
See: Gatter Entrelac step-by-step tutorial

Some may be intimidated by how complicated they look (but really – entrelac is easy!)
See: Gatter Entrelac step-by-step tutorial

Entrelac Sunburst Book Jacket by Cecily Keim

1:01 PM
What a capital idea! This knit sunburst design looks complicated, but it's not.

Materials:
jacket body yarn
  2 skeins of Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton in Sage (#83)
sunburst motif yarn
   1/3 skein of Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in Poppy (#601)
   1/3 skein of Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in Orchid (#618)
pair of straight size 7 needles
9 double-pointed size 7 needles
hardbound/wirebound journal measuring 8-1/2" x 11"
2 fabric pieces measuring 7"x10" (once hemmed)
Finished Sizes
Motif - 10" x 10"
Book cover - 11" x 8-1/2"
Entrelac Sunburst Motif

First Tier
  1. Using orange yarn, CO 48.
  2. Create 8 base triangles, each worked over 6 stitches (figure A).
  3. Each triangle starts with 2 stitches. On the Knit rows, work in an extra stitch from the cast-on stitches to increase the shape of the triangle.

     Row 1: K2, turn.
     Row 2: slip 1, P1, turn.
     Row 3: slip 1, K2, turn.
     Row 4: slip 1, P2, turn.
     Row 5: slip 1, K3, turn.
     Row 6: slip 1, P3, turn.
     Row 7: slip 1, K4, turn.
     Row 8: slip 1, P4, turn.
     Row 9: slip 1, K5, turn.
     Row 10: slip 1, P5, turn.
     Row 11: slip 1, K5, don't turn.


  1. Without turning, continue to work into the cast-on stitches to work row 1. Repeat rows 1 through 11 until you have 8 triangles.
  2. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail.
  3. Now you have 8 triangles on your needle; though they probably look more like nubs than triangles due to the way they are attached to the needle (figure B).  
  4. Start to work in the round with the next row. To do this, transfer the triangles onto double-pointed needles. Each triangle should have its own needle (figure C).
  5. Use the cast-on tail to tie the two end triangles together at the bottom tip of each triangle (figure D).
. Second Tier
This tier creates rectangles in each triangle space (figure E).
  1. With the wrong side facing, use the orange yarn and an empty needle to pick up 5 stitches along the side of the triangle. Use the needle holding triangle stitches to your right:
  • s1, K4, turn
  • Use the empty needle: s 1, P3, P2 together, turn

Note: This P2 together works 1 stitch from the triangle on the needle into the row. Repeat 2 and 3 until all of the stitches from the triangle have been worked into.
  1. Work 1 row of Knit and 1 of Purl:

  • s 1, K4, turn
  • s 1, P4, turn
  1. Continue to work 1 rectangle into each triangle space across the round.
Third Tier
This tier creates a rectangle along the side of each rectangle (figure F).
  1. With the right side facing. Use the purple yarn and an empty needle to pick up 8 stitches along the side of a rectangle. Turn. Use the needle holding rectangle stitches to your right:
  • s 1, P7, turn.
  • Use the empty needle: s 1, K6, ssK, turn.
  • Repeat 2 and 3 until all of the stitches from the rectangle have been worked into.
  1. Work stockinette rows:
  • s 1, P7, turn
  • s 1, K7, turn
  • s 1, P7, turn
  • s 1, K7, turn
  1. BO, and cut the yarn.
Note: Each rectangle in this tier is made with a separate portion of yarn. Continue to work 1 rectangle into the side space of each rectangle across the tier.



Book Jacket Body
  1. Start with the two bottom flaps, working the two pieces at the same time. To do this, CO for each piece on the same needle and work each piece at the same time using separate balls of yarn.
  2. CO 26. Using a separate ball, CO 26 on the same needle.

     Row 1: K 26 across, switch to the other cast on group and K 26 across.
     Row 2: P 26 across, witch to the other cast on group and P 26 across.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 to row 14.
     Row 14: P 26 across. Switch to the other cast on group and P 26 across. At the end of the row of the second piece on the needle, CO 15
     Row 15: K 41 across. Using the yarn from this group CO 7 and continue to knit the row of the second group. The two groups are now joined. CO another 15 at the end of the row.
     Row 16: P 89 across.
     Row 17: K 89 across. Repeat rows 16 and 17 to Row 82.
     Row 82: At the beginning of this row, BO the first 15 stitches P the next 26 stitches. BO the next 7, P through the end of the row.
     Row 83: BO the first 15 stitches, K the next 26 stitches. BO the next. Join a separate ball. K 26.
     Row 84: K 26 across. Switch to the other group and K 26 across.

Having completed the sunburst design, next move on to the body of the cover.  
Row 85: P 26 across. Switch to the other group and P 26 across. Repeat rows 84 and 85 through Row 98. BO both groups (figure G)

Finishing

  1. Block the book jacket so that the flaps are folded and creased (figure H). A steam iron works perfectly for this. Pin in place (figure I) and sew the ends of the flaps.
  2. Stitch hemmed fabric panels (inside lining to cover spiral book) into place as shown (figure J).
  3. Whipstitch sunburst design onto the front of the book jacket (figure K).
 
.Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/topics/crafting/index.html
What a capital idea! This knit sunburst design looks complicated, but it's not.

Materials:
jacket body yarn
  2 skeins of Blue Sky Alpacas Organic Cotton in Sage (#83)
sunburst motif yarn
   1/3 skein of Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in Poppy (#601)
   1/3 skein of Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in Orchid (#618)
pair of straight size 7 needles
9 double-pointed size 7 needles
hardbound/wirebound journal measuring 8-1/2" x 11"
2 fabric pieces measuring 7"x10" (once hemmed)
Finished Sizes
Motif - 10" x 10"
Book cover - 11" x 8-1/2"
Entrelac Sunburst Motif

First Tier
  1. Using orange yarn, CO 48.
  2. Create 8 base triangles, each worked over 6 stitches (figure A).
  3. Each triangle starts with 2 stitches. On the Knit rows, work in an extra stitch from the cast-on stitches to increase the shape of the triangle.

     Row 1: K2, turn.
     Row 2: slip 1, P1, turn.
     Row 3: slip 1, K2, turn.
     Row 4: slip 1, P2, turn.
     Row 5: slip 1, K3, turn.
     Row 6: slip 1, P3, turn.
     Row 7: slip 1, K4, turn.
     Row 8: slip 1, P4, turn.
     Row 9: slip 1, K5, turn.
     Row 10: slip 1, P5, turn.
     Row 11: slip 1, K5, don't turn.


  1. Without turning, continue to work into the cast-on stitches to work row 1. Repeat rows 1 through 11 until you have 8 triangles.
  2. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail.
  3. Now you have 8 triangles on your needle; though they probably look more like nubs than triangles due to the way they are attached to the needle (figure B).  
  4. Start to work in the round with the next row. To do this, transfer the triangles onto double-pointed needles. Each triangle should have its own needle (figure C).
  5. Use the cast-on tail to tie the two end triangles together at the bottom tip of each triangle (figure D).
. Second Tier
This tier creates rectangles in each triangle space (figure E).
  1. With the wrong side facing, use the orange yarn and an empty needle to pick up 5 stitches along the side of the triangle. Use the needle holding triangle stitches to your right:
  • s1, K4, turn
  • Use the empty needle: s 1, P3, P2 together, turn

Note: This P2 together works 1 stitch from the triangle on the needle into the row. Repeat 2 and 3 until all of the stitches from the triangle have been worked into.
  1. Work 1 row of Knit and 1 of Purl:

  • s 1, K4, turn
  • s 1, P4, turn
  1. Continue to work 1 rectangle into each triangle space across the round.
Third Tier
This tier creates a rectangle along the side of each rectangle (figure F).
  1. With the right side facing. Use the purple yarn and an empty needle to pick up 8 stitches along the side of a rectangle. Turn. Use the needle holding rectangle stitches to your right:
  • s 1, P7, turn.
  • Use the empty needle: s 1, K6, ssK, turn.
  • Repeat 2 and 3 until all of the stitches from the rectangle have been worked into.
  1. Work stockinette rows:
  • s 1, P7, turn
  • s 1, K7, turn
  • s 1, P7, turn
  • s 1, K7, turn
  1. BO, and cut the yarn.
Note: Each rectangle in this tier is made with a separate portion of yarn. Continue to work 1 rectangle into the side space of each rectangle across the tier.



Book Jacket Body
  1. Start with the two bottom flaps, working the two pieces at the same time. To do this, CO for each piece on the same needle and work each piece at the same time using separate balls of yarn.
  2. CO 26. Using a separate ball, CO 26 on the same needle.

     Row 1: K 26 across, switch to the other cast on group and K 26 across.
     Row 2: P 26 across, witch to the other cast on group and P 26 across.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 to row 14.
     Row 14: P 26 across. Switch to the other cast on group and P 26 across. At the end of the row of the second piece on the needle, CO 15
     Row 15: K 41 across. Using the yarn from this group CO 7 and continue to knit the row of the second group. The two groups are now joined. CO another 15 at the end of the row.
     Row 16: P 89 across.
     Row 17: K 89 across. Repeat rows 16 and 17 to Row 82.
     Row 82: At the beginning of this row, BO the first 15 stitches P the next 26 stitches. BO the next 7, P through the end of the row.
     Row 83: BO the first 15 stitches, K the next 26 stitches. BO the next. Join a separate ball. K 26.
     Row 84: K 26 across. Switch to the other group and K 26 across.

Having completed the sunburst design, next move on to the body of the cover.  
Row 85: P 26 across. Switch to the other group and P 26 across. Repeat rows 84 and 85 through Row 98. BO both groups (figure G)

Finishing

  1. Block the book jacket so that the flaps are folded and creased (figure H). A steam iron works perfectly for this. Pin in place (figure I) and sew the ends of the flaps.
  2. Stitch hemmed fabric panels (inside lining to cover spiral book) into place as shown (figure J).
  3. Whipstitch sunburst design onto the front of the book jacket (figure K).
 
.Source: http://www.diynetwork.com/topics/crafting/index.html

Panda Entrelac Baby Hat - Intermediate Skill

4:54 AM

Panda Entrelac Baby Hat

Designed & Knit by Nancy Wild - A Warm and Wild Design

 

Materials: 1 - 50 gr ball Crystal Palace Panda Cotton in Main color (MC) shown here with #9575 "circus"
1 - 50 gr ball of Crystal Palace Panda Cotton in a contrasting color (CC) #0402 "ember glow"
1 set of size 4 Crystal Palace Star Bamboo Needles or size needed to get gauge
Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends 

Gauge: 7 Sts per inch and 12 rows per inch 

Note: This pattern will work for an Adult size hat if you use Crystal Palace Taos double stranded and size 10 1/2 needles or Crystal Palace Iceland with size 10 1/2 needles. You will need 3 balls of MC and 1 ball of CC for Taos and 2 balls of MC Iceland and One ball of CC. 

Hat: Cast on 80 sts with CC color Join being careful not to twist sts and placing a marker to indicate the beginning of the rounds.
Work 10 rounds of K 2, P 2 rib in CC work 4 round of rib in MC, then 10 rounds of CC. Increase round: *K 1, K in front and back of next St* (increase made).
Repeat around (120 Sts)
Knit all sts for 3 1/2 inches (7 inches if using for Adult pattern) using MC.

Setup Triangles: Working in CC yarn
Row 1: SL 1, K1, turn.
Row 2: SL 1, P 1, turn
Row 3; SL 1, K 2, turn
Row 4: SL 1, P2, turn
Row 5: SL 1, K3, turn
Row 6: SL 1, P 3, turn
Row 7: SL 1, K 4, turn
Row 8: SL 1, P4, turn
Row 9: SL 1, K5, turn
Row 10: SL 1, P 5 turn
Row 11: SL 1, K6, turn
Row 12: SL 1, P6, turn
Row 13: SL 1, K7, turn
Row 14: SL 1, P7, turn
Row 15: SL 1, K8, turn
Row 16: SL 1, P8, Turn
Row 17: SL 1, K9, turn
Row 18: SL 1, P9, turn
Row 19: SL 1, K10, turn
Row 20: SL 1, P10, turn
Row 21: SL 1, K11, turn
Row 22: SL 1, P11, turn
Row 23: SL 1, K12, turn
Row 24: SL 1, P12, turn
Row25: SL 1, K13, turn
Row 26: SL 1, P13, turn
Row 27: SL 1, K14. turn
Repeat these 27 rows until you have completed 8 triangles in total. [Note: on row 27, for triangle #8, do not turn.  You now face the the slipped st edge of triangle #1 and this is where you pick up 15 sts. ] 

Star motif and closing top of hat: First rectangle: (this one will NOT be repeated again)
Pickup 15 sts on the slipped stitch side of the triangle (this can be accomplished by picking up every slipped st on the edge) Row 1: With MC K 14, K2tog (one form pickup and one from setup triangle) turn Row 2: SL 1, P 14, turn
Repeat these two rows until you have worked all of the Sts from the first setup triangle.

Next 6 rectangles:
Next row: Pickup 15 Sts on the edge of the next triangle. Row 1: K 14 K2tog (1 st from the next triangle. Turn Row 2: SL 1, P13, P2tog, Turn. Row 3: SL 1, K13, K2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 2&3 until you have worked all of the sts from the previous rectangle and the next triangle)
The last rectangle is worked the same as the 6 previous ones except after the last row you will Pick up the Slipped sts from the edge of the first triangle and do a three needle bind off. Leave a tail to run through the slipped sts at the top and pull closed. Bring yarn to inside of hat and weave in all ends. 


Source: http://crystalpalaceyarns.com/cpy/patterns/baby-child/pandacotton-baby-hat.html 

Panda Entrelac Baby Hat

Designed & Knit by Nancy Wild - A Warm and Wild Design

 

Materials: 1 - 50 gr ball Crystal Palace Panda Cotton in Main color (MC) shown here with #9575 "circus"
1 - 50 gr ball of Crystal Palace Panda Cotton in a contrasting color (CC) #0402 "ember glow"
1 set of size 4 Crystal Palace Star Bamboo Needles or size needed to get gauge
Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends 

Gauge: 7 Sts per inch and 12 rows per inch 

Note: This pattern will work for an Adult size hat if you use Crystal Palace Taos double stranded and size 10 1/2 needles or Crystal Palace Iceland with size 10 1/2 needles. You will need 3 balls of MC and 1 ball of CC for Taos and 2 balls of MC Iceland and One ball of CC. 

Hat: Cast on 80 sts with CC color Join being careful not to twist sts and placing a marker to indicate the beginning of the rounds.
Work 10 rounds of K 2, P 2 rib in CC work 4 round of rib in MC, then 10 rounds of CC. Increase round: *K 1, K in front and back of next St* (increase made).
Repeat around (120 Sts)
Knit all sts for 3 1/2 inches (7 inches if using for Adult pattern) using MC.

Setup Triangles: Working in CC yarn
Row 1: SL 1, K1, turn.
Row 2: SL 1, P 1, turn
Row 3; SL 1, K 2, turn
Row 4: SL 1, P2, turn
Row 5: SL 1, K3, turn
Row 6: SL 1, P 3, turn
Row 7: SL 1, K 4, turn
Row 8: SL 1, P4, turn
Row 9: SL 1, K5, turn
Row 10: SL 1, P 5 turn
Row 11: SL 1, K6, turn
Row 12: SL 1, P6, turn
Row 13: SL 1, K7, turn
Row 14: SL 1, P7, turn
Row 15: SL 1, K8, turn
Row 16: SL 1, P8, Turn
Row 17: SL 1, K9, turn
Row 18: SL 1, P9, turn
Row 19: SL 1, K10, turn
Row 20: SL 1, P10, turn
Row 21: SL 1, K11, turn
Row 22: SL 1, P11, turn
Row 23: SL 1, K12, turn
Row 24: SL 1, P12, turn
Row25: SL 1, K13, turn
Row 26: SL 1, P13, turn
Row 27: SL 1, K14. turn
Repeat these 27 rows until you have completed 8 triangles in total. [Note: on row 27, for triangle #8, do not turn.  You now face the the slipped st edge of triangle #1 and this is where you pick up 15 sts. ] 

Star motif and closing top of hat: First rectangle: (this one will NOT be repeated again)
Pickup 15 sts on the slipped stitch side of the triangle (this can be accomplished by picking up every slipped st on the edge) Row 1: With MC K 14, K2tog (one form pickup and one from setup triangle) turn Row 2: SL 1, P 14, turn
Repeat these two rows until you have worked all of the Sts from the first setup triangle.

Next 6 rectangles:
Next row: Pickup 15 Sts on the edge of the next triangle. Row 1: K 14 K2tog (1 st from the next triangle. Turn Row 2: SL 1, P13, P2tog, Turn. Row 3: SL 1, K13, K2tog, turn.
Repeat rows 2&3 until you have worked all of the sts from the previous rectangle and the next triangle)
The last rectangle is worked the same as the 6 previous ones except after the last row you will Pick up the Slipped sts from the edge of the first triangle and do a three needle bind off. Leave a tail to run through the slipped sts at the top and pull closed. Bring yarn to inside of hat and weave in all ends. 


Source: http://crystalpalaceyarns.com/cpy/patterns/baby-child/pandacotton-baby-hat.html 

Entrelac Beret Knitting Pattern, source Lionbrand.com

4:58 AM
View more

 MATERIALS
620-118 Wool-Ease: Indigo : 1 ball
825-208 AmazingTM Yarn: Glacier Bay: 1ball
Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 9
Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers
Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
Additional Materials
Circular knitting needle size 9 (5.5 mm), 16 in. (40.5 cm) long

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
beg = begin(s)(ning)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together
rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sl = slip
St st = Stockinette stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side

GAUGE:

18 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

    skp Slip 1 as if to knit, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit stitch - 1 st decreased.

NOTES:

    1. Entrelac knitting consists of rows of triangles and blocks that are worked in short rows. Short rows are rows that are worked over a portion of the sts in a row, leaving the remaining sts unworked. To work short rows, the pattern instructions will tell you to 'turn' before you reach the end of the row.
    2. When knitting in the rnd on double pointed needles (dpns), your sts need to be divided fairly evenly onto the needles. If you are working with a set of 4 dpn, your sts should be divided among 3 needles. If you are working with a set of 5 dpn, your sts should be divided among 4 needles. The total number of sts will not always be evenly divisible by the number of dpns that you are using - this is not a problem! Simply divide your sts as evenly as possible, you will still create a symmetrical 'tube' of knitting.
    3. Slip sts as if to purl.

BERET
Ribbing
With circular needle and A, cast on 80 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Rnds 1-12: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13 (turning ridge): Purl to end of rnd.
Rnds 14-25: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Fold ribbing, along the turning ridge, to the inside so that the cast-on edge is behind your needles and the turning ridge is at the bottom of the piece.
Joining Rnd: Insert left needle into first loop from cast-on edge; with right needle, knit the loop together with next st on left needle; *insert left needle into next loop from cast-on edge; with right needle, knit the loop together with next st on left needle; rep from * to end of rnd.
Entrelac Body
Change to B, leaving A attached.
Base Triangles
First Base Triangle
Row 1 (RS): K2, turn.
Row 2 (WS): P2, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k2, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k3, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, k4, do not turn.
Next 15 Base Triangles Rep Rows 1-7 of First Base Triangle 15 more times.
Note: All ribbing sts should have been worked, and there should be sixteen 5-st triangles on the needle.

First Tier of Blocks
Change to A, leaving B attached.
First Block
Row 1 (RS): From RS, pick up and k5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p3, p2tog, turn.
Row 3 (RS): K5, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Blocks Row 1 (WS): From WS, pick up and p5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (RS): K5, turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1, p3, p2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: K5, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, DO NOT TURN.
Rep Rows 1-11 fourteen more times.
 Second Tier of Blocks
Change to B, leaving A attached.
First Block
Row 1 (WS): From WS, pick up and p5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k3, skp, turn.
Row 3 (WS): P5, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: Sl 1, k3, skp, DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Blocks Row 1 (RS): From RS, pick up and k5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (WS): P5, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, k3, skp, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: P5, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, k3, skp, DO NOT TURN.
Rep Rows 1-11 fourteen more times.
Third Tier of Blocks
Rep First Tier of Blocks.
 Fourth Tier of Blocks
Rep Second Tier of Blocks.

Fifth Tier of Blocks
Rep First Tier of Blocks.

Top Triangles
Change to B, leaving A attached.
First Top Triangle
Row 1 (RS): From RS with B, pick up and k6 sts across slip stitch edge between the needles, turn. Note: After First Top Triangle is completed, you will pick up only 5 sts across the slip stitch edge to begin each of the remaining top triangles.
Row 2 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 3: Skp, k3, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: P5, turn.
Row 5: Skp, k2, k2tog, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: Skp, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 8: P3, turn.
Row 9: Skp, k2tog, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, turn.
Row 11: Skp.
DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Top Triangles Row 1 (RS): From RS with B, pick up and k5 sts across slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2: P6, turn.
Rows 3-11: Rep Rows 3-11 of First Top Triangle.
Rep last 11 rows fourteen more times-1 st rem on needle.
Cut B. Top of Hat
Work top of Hat with A only.
Pick-Up Rnd (RS): With A, pick and k4 sts across edge of first triangle, pick up and k5 sts across edge of each of remaining triangles-80 sts at the end of this rnd. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Note: When sts have been sufficiently decreased, change to double pointed needles.

Decrease Rnd 1 (RS): *K2tog, k8; rep from * to end of rnd - 72 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 2: *K2tog, k7; rep from * to end of rnd - 64 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 3: *K2tog, k6; rep from * to end of rnd - 56 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 4: *K2tog, k5; rep from * to end of rnd - 48 sts.
Decrease Rnd 5: *K2tog, k4; rep from * to end of rnd - 40 sts.
Decrease Rnd 6: *K2tog, k3; rep from * to end of rnd - 32 sts.
Decrease Rnd 7: *K2tog, k2; rep from * to end of rnd - 24 sts.
Decrease Rnd 8: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of rnd - 16 sts.
Decrease Rnd 9: *K2tog; rep from * to end of rnd - 8 sts at the end of this rnd.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining sts and pull to gather. Knot securely. 
FINISHING
Weave in ends.

View more

 MATERIALS
620-118 Wool-Ease: Indigo : 1 ball
825-208 AmazingTM Yarn: Glacier Bay: 1ball
Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 9
Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers
Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
Additional Materials
Circular knitting needle size 9 (5.5 mm), 16 in. (40.5 cm) long

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
beg = begin(s)(ning)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together
p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together
rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sl = slip
St st = Stockinette stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side

GAUGE:

18 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

    skp Slip 1 as if to knit, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit stitch - 1 st decreased.

NOTES:

    1. Entrelac knitting consists of rows of triangles and blocks that are worked in short rows. Short rows are rows that are worked over a portion of the sts in a row, leaving the remaining sts unworked. To work short rows, the pattern instructions will tell you to 'turn' before you reach the end of the row.
    2. When knitting in the rnd on double pointed needles (dpns), your sts need to be divided fairly evenly onto the needles. If you are working with a set of 4 dpn, your sts should be divided among 3 needles. If you are working with a set of 5 dpn, your sts should be divided among 4 needles. The total number of sts will not always be evenly divisible by the number of dpns that you are using - this is not a problem! Simply divide your sts as evenly as possible, you will still create a symmetrical 'tube' of knitting.
    3. Slip sts as if to purl.

BERET
Ribbing
With circular needle and A, cast on 80 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Rnds 1-12: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13 (turning ridge): Purl to end of rnd.
Rnds 14-25: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Fold ribbing, along the turning ridge, to the inside so that the cast-on edge is behind your needles and the turning ridge is at the bottom of the piece.
Joining Rnd: Insert left needle into first loop from cast-on edge; with right needle, knit the loop together with next st on left needle; *insert left needle into next loop from cast-on edge; with right needle, knit the loop together with next st on left needle; rep from * to end of rnd.
Entrelac Body
Change to B, leaving A attached.
Base Triangles
First Base Triangle
Row 1 (RS): K2, turn.
Row 2 (WS): P2, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k2, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k3, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, k4, do not turn.
Next 15 Base Triangles Rep Rows 1-7 of First Base Triangle 15 more times.
Note: All ribbing sts should have been worked, and there should be sixteen 5-st triangles on the needle.

First Tier of Blocks
Change to A, leaving B attached.
First Block
Row 1 (RS): From RS, pick up and k5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p3, p2tog, turn.
Row 3 (RS): K5, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Blocks Row 1 (WS): From WS, pick up and p5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (RS): K5, turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1, p3, p2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: K5, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, DO NOT TURN.
Rep Rows 1-11 fourteen more times.
 Second Tier of Blocks
Change to B, leaving A attached.
First Block
Row 1 (WS): From WS, pick up and p5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k3, skp, turn.
Row 3 (WS): P5, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: Sl 1, k3, skp, DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Blocks Row 1 (RS): From RS, pick up and k5 sts across the slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2 (WS): P5, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, k3, skp, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 three more times.
Row 10: P5, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, k3, skp, DO NOT TURN.
Rep Rows 1-11 fourteen more times.
Third Tier of Blocks
Rep First Tier of Blocks.
 Fourth Tier of Blocks
Rep Second Tier of Blocks.

Fifth Tier of Blocks
Rep First Tier of Blocks.

Top Triangles
Change to B, leaving A attached.
First Top Triangle
Row 1 (RS): From RS with B, pick up and k6 sts across slip stitch edge between the needles, turn. Note: After First Top Triangle is completed, you will pick up only 5 sts across the slip stitch edge to begin each of the remaining top triangles.
Row 2 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 3: Skp, k3, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: P5, turn.
Row 5: Skp, k2, k2tog, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: Skp, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 8: P3, turn.
Row 9: Skp, k2tog, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, turn.
Row 11: Skp.
DO NOT TURN.
Next 15 Top Triangles Row 1 (RS): From RS with B, pick up and k5 sts across slip stitch edge between the needles, turn.
Row 2: P6, turn.
Rows 3-11: Rep Rows 3-11 of First Top Triangle.
Rep last 11 rows fourteen more times-1 st rem on needle.
Cut B. Top of Hat
Work top of Hat with A only.
Pick-Up Rnd (RS): With A, pick and k4 sts across edge of first triangle, pick up and k5 sts across edge of each of remaining triangles-80 sts at the end of this rnd. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.
Note: When sts have been sufficiently decreased, change to double pointed needles.

Decrease Rnd 1 (RS): *K2tog, k8; rep from * to end of rnd - 72 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 2: *K2tog, k7; rep from * to end of rnd - 64 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 3: *K2tog, k6; rep from * to end of rnd - 56 sts at the end of this rnd.
Decrease Rnd 4: *K2tog, k5; rep from * to end of rnd - 48 sts.
Decrease Rnd 5: *K2tog, k4; rep from * to end of rnd - 40 sts.
Decrease Rnd 6: *K2tog, k3; rep from * to end of rnd - 32 sts.
Decrease Rnd 7: *K2tog, k2; rep from * to end of rnd - 24 sts.
Decrease Rnd 8: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of rnd - 16 sts.
Decrease Rnd 9: *K2tog; rep from * to end of rnd - 8 sts at the end of this rnd.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining sts and pull to gather. Knot securely. 
FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Entrelac Beret Knitting Pattern, source Lionbrand.com

4:14 PM
Entrelac Beret Knitting Pattern 

The afghan can be made longer (make the entrelac strips longer) or wider (add another panel). Remember to adjust the amount of yarn. 

The afghan can be made longer (make the entrelac strips longer) or wider (add another panel). Remember to adjust the amount of yarn.

Materials:
Patons Decor
75% acrylic/25% wool
210 yards/100 grams
3 balls Deep County Blue #1623 (Color A)
7 balls Rich Country Blue #1622 (Color B)
3 balls Aubergine #1623 (Color C)
3 balls Rich Aubergine #1627 (Color D)
Size 6 US (4.25 mm) 30 inch circular needle or size needed to obtain gauge
Size H crochet hook

Gauge:
20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Approximate Size:
42" by 57"

IntstructionsEntrelac Panels
With Color A CO 32 sts and work base triangles as follows:
*K1, turn, P1, turn
K2, turn, P2, turn
K3, turn, P3, turn
Continue in this manner until you reach K8; do not turn.
Rep from * three times more.

Entrelac Row 2 (end triangle with WS facing)
With Color B:
P1, turn, inc in this st, turn
P1, P2tog, turn, inc in first st, K1, turn
P2, P2tog, turn, K1, inc in next st, K1, turn
P3, P2tog, turn, K2, inc in next st, K1, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K3, inc in next st, K1, turn
Continue in this manner until you reach P7, P2tog; do not turn.

Full entrelac with WS facing
*With color C, pick up 8 sts purlwise along the edge of the triangle/rectangle directly underneath and work as follows:
Row 1: Knit, turn
Row 2: P7, P2tog, turn
Rep these 2 rows 8 times but do not turn after the last purl row.
Rep from * twice more.

End triangle with WS facing
Pick up 8 sts purlwise, turn
K8, turn
P6, P2tog, turn, K7, turn
P5, P2tog, turn, K6, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K5, turn
P3, P2tog, turn, K4, turn
Continue decreasing in this manner until one st remains.
Fasten off.

Entrelac Row 3 (Full entrelac with RS facing):
Turn so you have the RS facing you.
With Color D, *pick up 8 sts knitwise along the inside edge of the end triangle just worked.
P8, turn, K7, SSK, turn
Rep 8 times but do not turn after last row.
Rep from * 3 times more, picking up the sts from the edges of the entrelacs as they present themselves.
Continue working, alternating colors A, B, C, and D.
Knit 43 complete entrelacs.
There will be a ½ square at the beginning.
BO on the 44th square.
BO as follows:
*Pick up 8 sts along the edge of the edge triangle just worked on the previous row, turn
P8, turn, K7, SSK, turn
P6, P2tog, turn, K6, SSK, turn
P5, P2tog, turn, K5, SSK, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K4, SSK, turn
Continue decreasing in this manner until one st remains.
Fasten off, but do not break yarn.
Rep from * 3 more times, picking up sts along edges of entrelacs as they present themselves.
BO.
For the center panel, use the color order D, C, B, and A. Make three panels in all.

Borders
The border is a pattern called Tanbark. To begin, take the center entrelac panel and pick up approximately 217 stitches with Color B. The RS of the entrelac should be facing you with the long edge facing you. The exact number is not critical, but it must be an odd number. The border pattern is very dense, so you need enough sts to make the panel long enough. It is helpful to place a marker every 20 stitches to keep track of the pattern.
Row 1 (WS): p1, *sl1 wyif, p1; rep from *
Row 2: p1, *k1, p1; rep from *
Row 3: sl1 wyif, * p1, sl1 wyif; rep from *
Row 4: k1, *p1, k1; rep from *
Rep these 4 rows for 3 inches or 34 rows. BO. Work the pattern for three inches (34 rows) and BO.
Pick up 217 stitches on the other side of the center panel and knit in Tanbark as for the first panel. Knit a panel of Tanbark on the outside edges of the two remaining panels.
Block
Do not press. Wash gently and pin out without stretching the knitting. When dry the entrelacs should be somewhat three-dimensional. The entrelac will pull up with the border, which is dense.

Finishing
Seam center and side panels. Knit the top and bottom in the Tanbark pattern, picking up approximately 193 stitches at each end and working 3 inches (34 rows).
With Color B, single crochet around the outside edge of the afghan.
Change to Color C and triple crochet around the outside edge once.
Change to Color D and triple crochet around the outside edge once.
Change to Color A and double crochet around the outside edge once

Souce: http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/afentrelac.htm
Entrelac Beret Knitting Pattern 

The afghan can be made longer (make the entrelac strips longer) or wider (add another panel). Remember to adjust the amount of yarn. 

The afghan can be made longer (make the entrelac strips longer) or wider (add another panel). Remember to adjust the amount of yarn.

Materials:
Patons Decor
75% acrylic/25% wool
210 yards/100 grams
3 balls Deep County Blue #1623 (Color A)
7 balls Rich Country Blue #1622 (Color B)
3 balls Aubergine #1623 (Color C)
3 balls Rich Aubergine #1627 (Color D)
Size 6 US (4.25 mm) 30 inch circular needle or size needed to obtain gauge
Size H crochet hook

Gauge:
20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Approximate Size:
42" by 57"

IntstructionsEntrelac Panels
With Color A CO 32 sts and work base triangles as follows:
*K1, turn, P1, turn
K2, turn, P2, turn
K3, turn, P3, turn
Continue in this manner until you reach K8; do not turn.
Rep from * three times more.

Entrelac Row 2 (end triangle with WS facing)
With Color B:
P1, turn, inc in this st, turn
P1, P2tog, turn, inc in first st, K1, turn
P2, P2tog, turn, K1, inc in next st, K1, turn
P3, P2tog, turn, K2, inc in next st, K1, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K3, inc in next st, K1, turn
Continue in this manner until you reach P7, P2tog; do not turn.

Full entrelac with WS facing
*With color C, pick up 8 sts purlwise along the edge of the triangle/rectangle directly underneath and work as follows:
Row 1: Knit, turn
Row 2: P7, P2tog, turn
Rep these 2 rows 8 times but do not turn after the last purl row.
Rep from * twice more.

End triangle with WS facing
Pick up 8 sts purlwise, turn
K8, turn
P6, P2tog, turn, K7, turn
P5, P2tog, turn, K6, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K5, turn
P3, P2tog, turn, K4, turn
Continue decreasing in this manner until one st remains.
Fasten off.

Entrelac Row 3 (Full entrelac with RS facing):
Turn so you have the RS facing you.
With Color D, *pick up 8 sts knitwise along the inside edge of the end triangle just worked.
P8, turn, K7, SSK, turn
Rep 8 times but do not turn after last row.
Rep from * 3 times more, picking up the sts from the edges of the entrelacs as they present themselves.
Continue working, alternating colors A, B, C, and D.
Knit 43 complete entrelacs.
There will be a ½ square at the beginning.
BO on the 44th square.
BO as follows:
*Pick up 8 sts along the edge of the edge triangle just worked on the previous row, turn
P8, turn, K7, SSK, turn
P6, P2tog, turn, K6, SSK, turn
P5, P2tog, turn, K5, SSK, turn
P4, P2tog, turn, K4, SSK, turn
Continue decreasing in this manner until one st remains.
Fasten off, but do not break yarn.
Rep from * 3 more times, picking up sts along edges of entrelacs as they present themselves.
BO.
For the center panel, use the color order D, C, B, and A. Make three panels in all.

Borders
The border is a pattern called Tanbark. To begin, take the center entrelac panel and pick up approximately 217 stitches with Color B. The RS of the entrelac should be facing you with the long edge facing you. The exact number is not critical, but it must be an odd number. The border pattern is very dense, so you need enough sts to make the panel long enough. It is helpful to place a marker every 20 stitches to keep track of the pattern.
Row 1 (WS): p1, *sl1 wyif, p1; rep from *
Row 2: p1, *k1, p1; rep from *
Row 3: sl1 wyif, * p1, sl1 wyif; rep from *
Row 4: k1, *p1, k1; rep from *
Rep these 4 rows for 3 inches or 34 rows. BO. Work the pattern for three inches (34 rows) and BO.
Pick up 217 stitches on the other side of the center panel and knit in Tanbark as for the first panel. Knit a panel of Tanbark on the outside edges of the two remaining panels.
Block
Do not press. Wash gently and pin out without stretching the knitting. When dry the entrelacs should be somewhat three-dimensional. The entrelac will pull up with the border, which is dense.

Finishing
Seam center and side panels. Knit the top and bottom in the Tanbark pattern, picking up approximately 193 stitches at each end and working 3 inches (34 rows).
With Color B, single crochet around the outside edge of the afghan.
Change to Color C and triple crochet around the outside edge once.
Change to Color D and triple crochet around the outside edge once.
Change to Color A and double crochet around the outside edge once

Souce: http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/afentrelac.htm

Santiago Entrelac Wrap

3:59 PM
.
Here is entrelac wrap pattern designed by  Kathy Perry and named Santiago Entrelac Wrap.
For more information and patterns free download, see: http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/santiago/santiago_4.html

Yarn needle
SIZES: Small/Medium (Large/XLarge)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: Approx 16"/ 40.5 cm
Length: Approx 54 (66)"/137 (167.5) cm

GAUGE
In Stockinette stitich 18 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm
In Garter stitch, 16 sts and 32 rows = 4”/10 cm

YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
(75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool):
#0024 Black (MC) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr,
#0017 Claret (A) 4 oz/113 gr,
#0020 Loden Forest (B) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr,
#0014 Deep Purple (C) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr
One US size 8 (5 mm) 29"/73.5 cm circular needle, or size to obtain gauge
STITCHES USED
Stockinette stitch
Garter stitch
Entrelac


WRAP (made in one piece with border added last)
With first color, cast on 36 sts.

TIER 1 -- Base Triangles (make 3)
P2, turn.
K2, turn.
P3, turn.
K3, turn.
Purl 1 more st each time from left hand needle until all 12 sts are on right hand needle. Do not turn.
Leave these sts and work two more base triangles.

TIER 2 – First Row of Blocks
Change to next color. The first row of Blocks has side triangles.
First side triangle:
K2, turn.
P2, turn.
Kfb, k1, skp turn.
P4, turn.
Dec 1 st each time from base triangle on k rows.
Continue until “kfb, k9, skp” has been worked. Do not turn; leave these 12 sts.
First Block
Pick up and k12 sts from row-ends of base triangle, turn.
P12, turn.
K11, skp, turn, p12.
Continue in this manner until all sts of base triangle have been decreased. Do not turn.
Work a Second Block between second and third triangles.
Second side triangle:
Pick up and k12 sts from row-ends of last base triangle, turn.
P2tog, p10, turn.
K11, turn.
P2tog, p9, turn, k10.
Continue decreasing at beg of every purl row until one st remains.
Turn, slip st onto left hand needle.

TIER 3 – Second Row of Blocks
Change to next color. The second row of Blocks does not have side triangles.
First Block
P1, pick up and p11 sts, turn.
K12, turn.
P11, p2tog, turn, k12.
Continue in this manner until all sts of First Row of Blocks has been decreased, do not turn.
Work second and third blocks in this manner.
SUBSEQUENT TIERS
Alternate Tier 2 and Tier 3 until there are 12 (15) of Tier 2 and 11 (14) of Tier 3.

TIER 4 -- Completing the Entrelac
Work the next row of Blocks is the same as the First Row of Blocks but working into the Second Row of Blocks instead of into base triangles.
Closing Triangles
Change to first color.
P1, pick up and p 11 sts from row-ends of side triangle, turn.
K12, turn.
P2tog, p9, p2tog, turn.
K11, turn.
P2tog, p8, p2tog, turn.
K10, turn.
Continue in this manner until “turn, k2” has been worked.
Turn, p1, k2tog, turn, k2, turn, p3tog – 1 st remains.
Picking up and purling 11 sts from row-ends of Blocks, work second and third closing triangles.

FINISHING
Border: With RS facing, using MC and circular needle, pick up 203 (254) sts (16 sts in each triangle and 1 between triangles) along one long edge.
(WS) Work in Garter st, inc 1 st (slip first st and inc 1 st in second st) at beg of each row 13 times.
(RS) Change to A and work 3 more rows in the same manner -- 219 (270) sts.  Bind off.
Rep for opposite long edge.
Short Edge: With RS facing, using MC and circular needle, pick up 50 sts along one short edge and work in the same manner as long edge border. Bind off 66 sts.
Rep for opposite short edge.
Seam edges to form mitres.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends. Steam lightly 
.
Here is entrelac wrap pattern designed by  Kathy Perry and named Santiago Entrelac Wrap.
For more information and patterns free download, see: http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/santiago/santiago_4.html

Yarn needle
SIZES: Small/Medium (Large/XLarge)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: Approx 16"/ 40.5 cm
Length: Approx 54 (66)"/137 (167.5) cm

GAUGE
In Stockinette stitich 18 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm
In Garter stitch, 16 sts and 32 rows = 4”/10 cm

YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
(75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool):
#0024 Black (MC) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr,
#0017 Claret (A) 4 oz/113 gr,
#0020 Loden Forest (B) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr,
#0014 Deep Purple (C) 3 (4, 4) oz/85 (113, 113) gr
One US size 8 (5 mm) 29"/73.5 cm circular needle, or size to obtain gauge
STITCHES USED
Stockinette stitch
Garter stitch
Entrelac


WRAP (made in one piece with border added last)
With first color, cast on 36 sts.

TIER 1 -- Base Triangles (make 3)
P2, turn.
K2, turn.
P3, turn.
K3, turn.
Purl 1 more st each time from left hand needle until all 12 sts are on right hand needle. Do not turn.
Leave these sts and work two more base triangles.

TIER 2 – First Row of Blocks
Change to next color. The first row of Blocks has side triangles.
First side triangle:
K2, turn.
P2, turn.
Kfb, k1, skp turn.
P4, turn.
Dec 1 st each time from base triangle on k rows.
Continue until “kfb, k9, skp” has been worked. Do not turn; leave these 12 sts.
First Block
Pick up and k12 sts from row-ends of base triangle, turn.
P12, turn.
K11, skp, turn, p12.
Continue in this manner until all sts of base triangle have been decreased. Do not turn.
Work a Second Block between second and third triangles.
Second side triangle:
Pick up and k12 sts from row-ends of last base triangle, turn.
P2tog, p10, turn.
K11, turn.
P2tog, p9, turn, k10.
Continue decreasing at beg of every purl row until one st remains.
Turn, slip st onto left hand needle.

TIER 3 – Second Row of Blocks
Change to next color. The second row of Blocks does not have side triangles.
First Block
P1, pick up and p11 sts, turn.
K12, turn.
P11, p2tog, turn, k12.
Continue in this manner until all sts of First Row of Blocks has been decreased, do not turn.
Work second and third blocks in this manner.
SUBSEQUENT TIERS
Alternate Tier 2 and Tier 3 until there are 12 (15) of Tier 2 and 11 (14) of Tier 3.

TIER 4 -- Completing the Entrelac
Work the next row of Blocks is the same as the First Row of Blocks but working into the Second Row of Blocks instead of into base triangles.
Closing Triangles
Change to first color.
P1, pick up and p 11 sts from row-ends of side triangle, turn.
K12, turn.
P2tog, p9, p2tog, turn.
K11, turn.
P2tog, p8, p2tog, turn.
K10, turn.
Continue in this manner until “turn, k2” has been worked.
Turn, p1, k2tog, turn, k2, turn, p3tog – 1 st remains.
Picking up and purling 11 sts from row-ends of Blocks, work second and third closing triangles.

FINISHING
Border: With RS facing, using MC and circular needle, pick up 203 (254) sts (16 sts in each triangle and 1 between triangles) along one long edge.
(WS) Work in Garter st, inc 1 st (slip first st and inc 1 st in second st) at beg of each row 13 times.
(RS) Change to A and work 3 more rows in the same manner -- 219 (270) sts.  Bind off.
Rep for opposite long edge.
Short Edge: With RS facing, using MC and circular needle, pick up 50 sts along one short edge and work in the same manner as long edge border. Bind off 66 sts.
Rep for opposite short edge.
Seam edges to form mitres.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends. Steam lightly 

Entrelac Tam Knitting Pattern

3:10 PM

Entrelac knitting has experienced a revival with the advent of long-repeat self-striping yarns. This entrelac hat, the Kaleidoscope Tam, shows why: As the colors change along the length of each strand of yarn, every block of knitting takes on its own personality. The corrugated rib band provides a jaunty base for the woven diamonds, and a whimsical stem on top finishes the look.


Enrrelac Tam by Mary Scott Huff
  • Size: Band circumference: 20 (21-1/4)"
  • Yarn: Worsted-weight yarn (shown: Knit One Crochet Too Paint Box, 100% wool, 100 yd.)
    MC: #1 Thistle (lavender/green variegated), 2 skeins
    CC: #12 Tandoor (rust variegated), 2 skeins
  • Gauge: 22 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle
  • Needles:
    Size 5 (3.75mm) 16" circular, or size needed to achieve gauge
    Size 6 (4mm) 16" circular and DPNs, or size needed to achieve gauge
  • Notions:
    Stitch marker
    Tapestry needle
Begin by working the band:



  1. With smaller needle and MC, CO 120 (128) sts. PM and join for working in rnds.
  2. Tie in CC and work in corrugated rib (k2 with MC, p2 with CC) until piece measures 1-1⁄2". Break off CC.
Work the foundation tier of 8-stitch triangles:
Change to larger needle and cont with MC.
  1. Row 1 (WS): P2, turn.
  2. Row 2: K2, turn.
  3. Row 3: P3, turn.
  4. Row 4: K3, turn.
  5. Cont adding sts in this way until triangle reaches 8 sts on WS (13 rows total); do not turn at end of last row. Begin again with Row 1.
  6. Cont until 15 (16) triangles have been made. Break yarn and knot ends tog. Join CC.
Work the first tier of 8-stitch blocks:
  1. Next row (RS): Pick up and knit 8 sts through selvedge edge of first triangle on right needle.
  2. Row 1: P8, turn.
  3. Row 2: K7, ssk (last st of block with next st of triangle), turn.
  4. Rep rows 1 and 2 until all triangle sts have been used and 16 rows have been worked.
  5. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join MC.
Work the second tier of 8-stitch blocks:

  1. Next row (WS): Pick up and purl 8 sts through selvedge edge of next adjoining block from prev tier.
  2. Row 1: K8, turn.
  3. Row 2: P7, p2tog (last st of current block with next st of block from prev tier), turn.
  4. Rep rows 1 and 2 until all sts of block from prev tier have been used, and 16 rows have been worked.
  5. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join CC.
Work the next tier with 7-stitch blocks:


 Next row (RS): Pick up and knit 8 sts from edge of adjoining block.
  2. Row 1: P2tog, p6, turn — 7 sts.
  3. Row 2: K6, ssk (last st of block with next st of adjoining block from prev tier), turn.
  4. Row 3: P7, turn.
  5. Rep rows 2 and 3 until all sts of adjoining block from prev tier have been used, and 16 rows have been worked, ending with Row 2.
  6. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join MC.
Continue working new tiers, decreasing by 1 stitch with each:
  1. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 6 sts and 14 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
  2. Work next tier with CC, from RS, and with blocks of 5 sts and 12 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join MC.
  3. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 4 sts and 10 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
  4. Work next tier with CC, from RS, and with blocks of 3 sts and 8 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join MC.
  5. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 2 sts and 6 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
Work the final tier:
  1. With CC, working from RS, [k1, pick up and knit 1 st from side of block in prev tier] 15 (16) times — 30 (32) sts.
  2. 2Next rnd: Knit.
  3. Next rnd: [K2tog] 15 (16) times — 15 (16) sts.
  4. Next rnd: Knit.
  5. Next rnd: [K2tog] 7 (8) times, k1 (0) — 8 sts.
Work the top stem:
  1. Break yarn and tie in MC. Knit 1 rnd.
  2. Next rnd: [K2tog] 4 times — 4 sts.
  3. Work 4-st knitted cord for 1". Break yarn and thread through tapestry needle. Run yarn tail through last 4 sts and fasten. Draw yarn tail into stem and trim from WS.
To finish weave in yarn tails and block.


source: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-knit-an-entrelac-tam.seriesId-352860.html

Entrelac knitting has experienced a revival with the advent of long-repeat self-striping yarns. This entrelac hat, the Kaleidoscope Tam, shows why: As the colors change along the length of each strand of yarn, every block of knitting takes on its own personality. The corrugated rib band provides a jaunty base for the woven diamonds, and a whimsical stem on top finishes the look.


Enrrelac Tam by Mary Scott Huff
  • Size: Band circumference: 20 (21-1/4)"
  • Yarn: Worsted-weight yarn (shown: Knit One Crochet Too Paint Box, 100% wool, 100 yd.)
    MC: #1 Thistle (lavender/green variegated), 2 skeins
    CC: #12 Tandoor (rust variegated), 2 skeins
  • Gauge: 22 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle
  • Needles:
    Size 5 (3.75mm) 16" circular, or size needed to achieve gauge
    Size 6 (4mm) 16" circular and DPNs, or size needed to achieve gauge
  • Notions:
    Stitch marker
    Tapestry needle
Begin by working the band:



  1. With smaller needle and MC, CO 120 (128) sts. PM and join for working in rnds.
  2. Tie in CC and work in corrugated rib (k2 with MC, p2 with CC) until piece measures 1-1⁄2". Break off CC.
Work the foundation tier of 8-stitch triangles:
Change to larger needle and cont with MC.
  1. Row 1 (WS): P2, turn.
  2. Row 2: K2, turn.
  3. Row 3: P3, turn.
  4. Row 4: K3, turn.
  5. Cont adding sts in this way until triangle reaches 8 sts on WS (13 rows total); do not turn at end of last row. Begin again with Row 1.
  6. Cont until 15 (16) triangles have been made. Break yarn and knot ends tog. Join CC.
Work the first tier of 8-stitch blocks:
  1. Next row (RS): Pick up and knit 8 sts through selvedge edge of first triangle on right needle.
  2. Row 1: P8, turn.
  3. Row 2: K7, ssk (last st of block with next st of triangle), turn.
  4. Rep rows 1 and 2 until all triangle sts have been used and 16 rows have been worked.
  5. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join MC.
Work the second tier of 8-stitch blocks:

  1. Next row (WS): Pick up and purl 8 sts through selvedge edge of next adjoining block from prev tier.
  2. Row 1: K8, turn.
  3. Row 2: P7, p2tog (last st of current block with next st of block from prev tier), turn.
  4. Rep rows 1 and 2 until all sts of block from prev tier have been used, and 16 rows have been worked.
  5. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join CC.
Work the next tier with 7-stitch blocks:


 Next row (RS): Pick up and knit 8 sts from edge of adjoining block.
  2. Row 1: P2tog, p6, turn — 7 sts.
  3. Row 2: K6, ssk (last st of block with next st of adjoining block from prev tier), turn.
  4. Row 3: P7, turn.
  5. Rep rows 2 and 3 until all sts of adjoining block from prev tier have been used, and 16 rows have been worked, ending with Row 2.
  6. Rep until 15 (16) blocks have been worked. Break yarn and tie ends tog. Join MC.
Continue working new tiers, decreasing by 1 stitch with each:
  1. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 6 sts and 14 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
  2. Work next tier with CC, from RS, and with blocks of 5 sts and 12 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join MC.
  3. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 4 sts and 10 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
  4. Work next tier with CC, from RS, and with blocks of 3 sts and 8 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join MC.
  5. Work next tier with MC, from WS, and with blocks of 2 sts and 6 rows each. Break yarn, tie ends tog, and join CC.
Work the final tier:
  1. With CC, working from RS, [k1, pick up and knit 1 st from side of block in prev tier] 15 (16) times — 30 (32) sts.
  2. 2Next rnd: Knit.
  3. Next rnd: [K2tog] 15 (16) times — 15 (16) sts.
  4. Next rnd: Knit.
  5. Next rnd: [K2tog] 7 (8) times, k1 (0) — 8 sts.
Work the top stem:
  1. Break yarn and tie in MC. Knit 1 rnd.
  2. Next rnd: [K2tog] 4 times — 4 sts.
  3. Work 4-st knitted cord for 1". Break yarn and thread through tapestry needle. Run yarn tail through last 4 sts and fasten. Draw yarn tail into stem and trim from WS.
To finish weave in yarn tails and block.


source: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-knit-an-entrelac-tam.seriesId-352860.html

Pencil Pocket For Children

2:59 PM
MC designed by Tagil Perlmutter
Photos: Brandy Fortune

Size

One size

Finished Measurements

Height: 5 inches
Width 91/2 inches

Materials

Pink and White version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7500 Ice Cream; 1 hank
#7512 Watermelon; 1 hank
Brown and Blue version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7511 Chipmunk; 1 hank
Bernat® Cottontots™ [100% cotton; 171 yards/156 meters per 3 ounce/85 gram skein];
#90105 Country Blue; 1 skein

Recommended needle sizes

US #7/4.5 mm needles

Notions

Cotton fabric, 11 x 12 inches for the simple lining or 11 x 25 inches for the advanced version
Sewing pins
10 inch Zipper - 1
Sewing needles and thread

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches in St st after blocking.
Exact gauge is not important in this project

Pattern Notes

The case is worked in one piece using Entrelac technique throughout.

Skills Required

Entrelac, blocking, lining
  
INSTRUCTIONS

Base Triangles

Using MC cast on 24 sts – very loosely.
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K8, turn.
Repeat Rows 2- 9 two more time.
Repeat Rows 2-8
Last Row: K6 (all sts have been worked and you have now 4 triangles on the left needle), turn.

First Tier of Blocks

This tier consists of 2 side triangles and 3 middle blocks:
With WS facing change to CC and work as follows:
Left Side Triangle
Row 1: P2, turn.
Row 2: K1, m1, k1, turn.
Row 3: P2, p2tog (one st from Side Triangle and one st from Base Triangle), turn.
Row 4: K2, m1, k1.
Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 6: K3, m1, k1, turn.
Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 8: K4, m1, k1, turn.
Row 9: P5, p2tog, do not turn.

Middle Blocks (right leaning blocks)
*With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P5, p2tog, turn.
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.
Repeat from * 2 more times (3 blocks made)
Right Side Triangle
With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the last Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: K5, turn.
Row 4: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 7: K3, turn.
Row 8: P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 9: K2, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, turn, slip last st to the right needle
This completes the first tier of blocks.
  
Second Tier of Blocks
This tier consists of all full blocks.
Change to MC and proceed as follows:

Block
*For the first block only: With RS facing, pick up 5 sts knitwise along the side of the triangle from the tier below, together with the 1 st in CC there are now 6 sts on the right needle. (For all remaining blocks pick up 6 sts), turn
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: K5, ssk, turn.**
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.

Third –Fifth Tiers of Blocks

Repeat First and Second Tiers, then repeat First Tier once more.

Sixth Tier – positioning the first pocket

With MC and following the instructions for the Second Tier, work the first block stopping at **.
Rows 3-9: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three times, then repeat Row 1 once more.
Row 10: K1, bind off 4 sts, slip last st back to left needle, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P1, cast on 4 sts purlwise, p1, turn.
Row 12: K5, ssk, do not turn.
This completes the first block in the 6th tier .Work 3 more blocks as given for the 2th tier.

Seventh Tier – positioning the second pocket

With CC and following the instruction for the First Tier, work the Left Side Triangle, then work Rows 1-9 of the first block.
Row 10 (WS): P1, bind off 4 sts, slip the last st back to the left needle, p2tog, turn.
Row 11: K1, cast on 4 sts, k1, turn.
Row 12: P5, p2tog, do not turn.
Complete next 2 blocks and the Right Side Triangle as instructed for the First Tier.

Eighth Tier

Work same as the Second Tier.

Ninth Tier

Work same as the First Tier.

Top Triangles – Last Tier

*With RS facing and MC, pick up 5 sts along the side of the triangle of the tier below (together with the 1 st already on the right needle there are 6 sts on the right needle), turn.
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn.
Row 3: P5, turn.
Row 4: Ssk, k2, ssk.
Row 5: P4, turn.
Row 6: Ssk k1, ssk, turn.
Row 7: P3, turn.
Row 8: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 9: P2, turn.
Row 10: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P2, turn
Row 12: Slip 1, ssk, psso – 1 st remains, do not turn.
Repeat from * 3 more times cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.
Block the garment focusing on the edges to square sides; you might need to stretch the bottom a little more to match the length of the top of the garment. 

Lining - simple version
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric according to the final size of the knitted item – allowing a little extra for the seams.
Fold the lining fabric in half with RS together and sew side seams using sewing thread.
Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.
Turn the knitted case so the RS is facing. Insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item with wrong sides together. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew fold at bottom of lining to fold of knit piece.
Insert a zipper and sew in place.
With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric - take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).

Lining - advanced version (internal divisions)
The internal divider of the lining is approximately 1 inch shorter than the full height of the case.
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric 8 inches longer than the final height of the knitted item, allowing a little extra on all sides for the seams.
Fold the lining in half with WS together (A to A, B to B) (see diagram for guidance) – sew a line at the top of the fold to secure the fold, sew a second line 4 inches away from the center fold through both thicknesses of lines AB to create the internal divider.
Fold the lining fabric with RS together, with the center fold inside and seam AB at bottom, sew side seams together through all thicknesses. The double thickness of fabric from the center fold to seam AB is the center divider of the lining.
Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.
With RS of knitted case facing, insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item, making sure the center divider is in the middle of the case. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew line AB to folded edge of knitted piece.
Insert a zipper and sew together.
Surprises
With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric - take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).
Enjoy!

Source: http://www.petitepurls.com/Fall2010/fall2010_p_mc2.html
MC designed by Tagil Perlmutter
Photos: Brandy Fortune

Size

One size

Finished Measurements

Height: 5 inches
Width 91/2 inches

Materials

Pink and White version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7500 Ice Cream; 1 hank
#7512 Watermelon; 1 hank
Brown and Blue version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7511 Chipmunk; 1 hank
Bernat® Cottontots™ [100% cotton; 171 yards/156 meters per 3 ounce/85 gram skein];
#90105 Country Blue; 1 skein

Recommended needle sizes

US #7/4.5 mm needles

Notions

Cotton fabric, 11 x 12 inches for the simple lining or 11 x 25 inches for the advanced version
Sewing pins
10 inch Zipper - 1
Sewing needles and thread

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches in St st after blocking.
Exact gauge is not important in this project

Pattern Notes

The case is worked in one piece using Entrelac technique throughout.

Skills Required

Entrelac, blocking, lining
  
INSTRUCTIONS

Base Triangles

Using MC cast on 24 sts – very loosely.
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K8, turn.
Repeat Rows 2- 9 two more time.
Repeat Rows 2-8
Last Row: K6 (all sts have been worked and you have now 4 triangles on the left needle), turn.

First Tier of Blocks

This tier consists of 2 side triangles and 3 middle blocks:
With WS facing change to CC and work as follows:
Left Side Triangle
Row 1: P2, turn.
Row 2: K1, m1, k1, turn.
Row 3: P2, p2tog (one st from Side Triangle and one st from Base Triangle), turn.
Row 4: K2, m1, k1.
Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 6: K3, m1, k1, turn.
Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 8: K4, m1, k1, turn.
Row 9: P5, p2tog, do not turn.

Middle Blocks (right leaning blocks)
*With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P5, p2tog, turn.
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.
Repeat from * 2 more times (3 blocks made)
Right Side Triangle
With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the last Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: K5, turn.
Row 4: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 7: K3, turn.
Row 8: P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 9: K2, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, turn, slip last st to the right needle
This completes the first tier of blocks.
  
Second Tier of Blocks
This tier consists of all full blocks.
Change to MC and proceed as follows:

Block
*For the first block only: With RS facing, pick up 5 sts knitwise along the side of the triangle from the tier below, together with the 1 st in CC there are now 6 sts on the right needle. (For all remaining blocks pick up 6 sts), turn
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: K5, ssk, turn.**
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.

Third –Fifth Tiers of Blocks

Repeat First and Second Tiers, then repeat First Tier once more.

Sixth Tier – positioning the first pocket

With MC and following the instructions for the Second Tier, work the first block stopping at **.
Rows 3-9: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three times, then repeat Row 1 once more.
Row 10: K1, bind off 4 sts, slip last st back to left needle, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P1, cast on 4 sts purlwise, p1, turn.
Row 12: K5, ssk, do not turn.
This completes the first block in the 6th tier .Work 3 more blocks as given for the 2th tier.

Seventh Tier – positioning the second pocket

With CC and following the instruction for the First Tier, work the Left Side Triangle, then work Rows 1-9 of the first block.
Row 10 (WS): P1, bind off 4 sts, slip the last st back to the left needle, p2tog, turn.
Row 11: K1, cast on 4 sts, k1, turn.
Row 12: P5, p2tog, do not turn.
Complete next 2 blocks and the Right Side Triangle as instructed for the First Tier.

Eighth Tier

Work same as the Second Tier.

Ninth Tier

Work same as the First Tier.

Top Triangles – Last Tier

*With RS facing and MC, pick up 5 sts along the side of the triangle of the tier below (together with the 1 st already on the right needle there are 6 sts on the right needle), turn.
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn.
Row 3: P5, turn.
Row 4: Ssk, k2, ssk.
Row 5: P4, turn.
Row 6: Ssk k1, ssk, turn.
Row 7: P3, turn.
Row 8: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 9: P2, turn.
Row 10: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P2, turn
Row 12: Slip 1, ssk, psso – 1 st remains, do not turn.
Repeat from * 3 more times cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.
Block the garment focusing on the edges to square sides; you might need to stretch the bottom a little more to match the length of the top of the garment. 

Lining - simple version
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric according to the final size of the knitted item – allowing a little extra for the seams.
Fold the lining fabric in half with RS together and sew side seams using sewing thread.
Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.
Turn the knitted case so the RS is facing. Insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item with wrong sides together. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew fold at bottom of lining to fold of knit piece.
Insert a zipper and sew in place.
With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric - take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).

Lining - advanced version (internal divisions)
The internal divider of the lining is approximately 1 inch shorter than the full height of the case.
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric 8 inches longer than the final height of the knitted item, allowing a little extra on all sides for the seams.
Fold the lining in half with WS together (A to A, B to B) (see diagram for guidance) – sew a line at the top of the fold to secure the fold, sew a second line 4 inches away from the center fold through both thicknesses of lines AB to create the internal divider.
Fold the lining fabric with RS together, with the center fold inside and seam AB at bottom, sew side seams together through all thicknesses. The double thickness of fabric from the center fold to seam AB is the center divider of the lining.
Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.
With RS of knitted case facing, insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item, making sure the center divider is in the middle of the case. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew line AB to folded edge of knitted piece.
Insert a zipper and sew together.
Surprises
With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric - take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).
Enjoy!

Source: http://www.petitepurls.com/Fall2010/fall2010_p_mc2.html
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